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I'm currently working on some knives that have enclosed finger rings and trying to figure out a good way to round the internal edges. Hand sanding is right out from time alone. I was thinking a dremel with a sanding drum would get you some of the way, but was hoping somebody might have something a bit faster and more even. Suggestions?
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Cowan
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General
A later update after experience and making a friend who has a rockwell tester.
I made a water cooled platen. Works well to keep the platen cool and give a more consistent heating, doesn't do a whole lot for actually keeping heat out of the blade. Garden sprayer is untenable for rough grinding, still building more heat there than I'd like.
Lost approximately 2-3 points of hardness on
by
Cowan
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General
Jason, are you able to post a file of the archive? I'd like to have it backed up locally as well.
by
Cowan
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General
In the first video I find it interesting how well the convex splits the chip instead of wedging against it. I think that's likely a significant aid to penetration, given that you're pressing that wood up into space rather than trying to compress it.
I checked my knife and I think the spots that rolled the worst were the same ones that had rolled previously. I ground down the rolls fr
by
Cowan
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General
I drew up your example in cad and that .2" of 8 degrees gives you twice the steel. 0.0045" vs 0.009".
I'm eager to do some experimentation.
Do you notice a perceptible change in cutting performance between those two geometries?
by
Cowan
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General
Thanks for the write-up Kyley.
I've been thinking about this recently, as I have a batch of 0.070" at heat currently. My first utility knife I made in this thickness suffered the problem you described of having insufficient support of the primary and rippling readily as a result. It was ~0.002-0.003" with a 10dps edge initially, rippled when cutting diagonally into hardwood with
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Cowan
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Is there a way to view your videos? They seem to have largely been removed or the audience restricted.
Agreed about the rod. Highly localized pressure and any flex that's too great will cause fatigue and potentially failure.
All the grinding info makes sense. What sort of durability do you see with such a thin edge? I recently ground a knife to ~0.003" and was able to ripple it cu
by
Cowan
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General
That is a really nice saw.
Dullards are aptly named in my experience. The less thought, the higher the chance the answer is more force. There's good reason I don't rely on bandsaws to cut square, and use a cold cut if it's important.
On the other hand I once received a picture from a coworker that was of the single remaining tooth on a portaband blade and captioned "that
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Cowan
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Kyley, you caught me just as I was about to post.
Is that grinding with the 60 and 80 done under water? Do you use coarser? I've been using 36 to lightly convex some kitchen knives in order to compensate for the lack of pressure from being so light on the unsupported belt. It just takes forever otherwise.
>way too much mess even with shielding.
Hahaha, exactly.
>aggressive br
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Cowan
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I always admire how good of a forum this is.
QuoteOlder Spice
The part that maters is microscopic, by the time you can feel a temperature difference that microscopic area has been damaged. Look into Fourier's laws for heat conductance.
This is pretty much what I had understood. Conductance through a material is only so quick and with a sufficient gradient you can have a small puddle wi
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Cowan
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Hello all. Very long time lurker with some questions. Really wishing I'd started making knives in quantity when Cliff was still around. I always wanted to send him one.
I finally recently built a 2x72 and am unsure of how to best control heat buildup in post ht grinding. I have seen Kyley mention even using a low grit belt can be sufficient to cause overheating on a microscopic scale in t
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Cowan
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