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        <title>Beyond T0.1 Micron - General Sharpening</title>
        <description>discuss sharpening, ask for help</description>
        <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/list.php?8</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Sat, 07 Mar 2026 11:22:17 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,1625,1625#msg-1625</guid>
            <title>Finally Got My Cold Steel #35LTC Kukri Shaving Sharp (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,1625,1625#msg-1625</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Wow, it took me years, but I finally got my Cold Steel #35LTC Kukri sharp.  This is one of my favorite knives, I bought it probably 20+ years ago when they were still sold, as the knife was discontinued in 2003.  You can get a thinner, machete version for a tenth of the price that this cost, in the same basic shape, a WWI/M43 Kukri shape, which I like better than the WWII Kukri&#039;s, which have the straight spine section.  Either one will do the job, these things are vicious cutters, and are basically a short sword.  I put it on my LC2 pistol belt as well as my Ontario 18&quot; D-Guard GI Machete.  Anyway, I was able to get it sharp using the new Spyderco 308CBN Webfoot sharpener, which did the heavy lifting, with it&#039;s rounded, radiused  edges, which is perfect for the matching the complex angles of the S-shaped re-curve of the blade.  The Webfoot, because of the gap in the sharpener, gives you a third rounded radiused sharpening surface, if you stick the blade through the gap of the sharpener.  It should fit most blades, as it fit the LTC, and it is a very wide blade at 2 3/4&quot; at the widest point, and it fit in the gap, which made sharpening a little quicker.  After the 308CBN Webfoot, I used the Spyderco 308F Golden Stone for grit refinement, a bridging grit as you will, and then a Spyderco 204UF Ultra-Fine Tri-Angle rod to finish the sharpening.  Now, along with the superb Spyderco sharpening systems I used, what also helped was the sharpening guide from the Kukri House.  I basically copied the field sharpening technique with the one of the two companion knives, the one meant to be used as a sharpening steel:<br />
<img src="https://www.thekhukurihouse.com/public/upload/editor/images/Karda-and-Chakmak-Small-knife-and-Sharpener.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br/><iframe id="ytplayer" type="text/html" width="425" height="350" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tqSxlqCYNPo" frameborder="0"></iframe><br/><br />
and with a file:<br />
<br/><iframe id="ytplayer" type="text/html" width="425" height="350" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/DtyaRFwB4PE" frameborder="0"></iframe><br/><br />
<br />
Using that method, but with the Spyderco sharpeners, I was able to get the blade shaving sharp, FINALLY!!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 13 May 2024 18:55:16 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,1480,1480#msg-1480</guid>
            <title>Ragweed Forge Soft Arkansas Pendant Stone (2 replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,1480,1480#msg-1480</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I like being able to wear handy things around my neck, tucked under my shirt.  This Soft Arkansas stone is about 4&quot;x1&quot; long, and of good quality:<br />
<br />
[<a href="https://ragweedforgestore.com/products/sharpening-medium-grit-viking-whetstone?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&amp;pr_rec_id=0892d5a68&amp;pr_rec_pid=4327979057197&amp;pr_ref_pid=4327978958893&amp;pr_seq=uniform" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">ragweedforgestore.com</a>]<br />
<br />
<img src="https://ragweedforgestore.com/cdn/shop/products/viking_whetstones_arkansas.jpg?v=1572480569" class="bbcode" border="0" />]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 13 Jan 2024 05:50:30 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,1300,1300#msg-1300</guid>
            <title>New Zealand Meat Processor Has Sharpener On Work Floor (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,1300,1300#msg-1300</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Kyley Harris(cKc Knives) sent me this;<br />
<br/><iframe id="ytplayer" type="text/html" width="425" height="350" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/diiveY5IuVI" frameborder="0"></iframe><br/><br />
<br />
<br />
I commented &quot;Interesting video.  I love topics like this, where you see what goes into making things.  There is a massive part of me that sees a little room for improvement on the knife sharpeners&#039; techniques, however, and if they adopted Cliff Stamps 3-step sharpening as well as to the 15°DPS to say 12°DPS, and thinned out the BTE thickness, as well as went to abrasive steel instead of smooth one, either ridged, or with an abrasive such as a SiC, Diamond, or even Sintered Ceramic (although you&#039;d have to get one could survive being handled roughly and dropped), but that is me being a perfectionist.  It is just awesome that they have a sharpener there on hand, that is so undescribably awesome that I am in shock that it was actually done.&quot;]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 04 Nov 2022 02:24:18 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,1089,1089#msg-1089</guid>
            <title>Regrinding Full Flat Blades (6 replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,1089,1089#msg-1089</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I need to regrind my Tern knife from Byrd.  It’s a slip-it design that really needs a thinner bevel.  Saber grinds seem easier than FFG blades unless I want a compound bevel halfway up the blade.  Anyone have any tips on how to do this and not make the blade look like my eyes were closed?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>me2</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 14 Apr 2022 16:31:34 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,1056,1056#msg-1056</guid>
            <title>Free Hand Sharpening (no replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,1056,1056#msg-1056</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I got wrapped up in a freehand sharpening thread on another forum. I guess I’ll have to brush up on my skills.  I rarely use just the Norton Economy stone anymore.  It’s a great flattening stone for my water stones though.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>me2</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 29 Mar 2022 10:24:44 +0000</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,984,984#msg-984</guid>
            <title>Why I Am Not A Great Sharpener (17 replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,984,984#msg-984</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I am not that great of a knife sharpener.  The only reason I can get decent results is that I cheat:<br />
<br />
<ol type="1"><li> I use micro-bevels </li><li> I back sharpen </li><li> I cross the scratch pattern </li><li> I draw the edge through wood </li><li> I condition my stones, as well as flatten them </li><li> I use very low (closer to a zero-edge) angles </li><li> I use a vintage Russian leather and linen hanging strop </li><li> I sharpen to a high grit finish </li><li> I use light pressure to sharpen </li><li> I use lubrication, usually water, mineral oil, and soap </li><li> I sometimes use a fixed angle system or Spyderco Sharpmaker </li></ol>
<br />
without these techniques I wouldn&#039;t be able to get edges that passed a Hanging Hair Test. X(]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 18 Mar 2022 23:17:14 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,849,849#msg-849</guid>
            <title>I Found My EDC Edge Finally, The Wayne Goddard Edge And His Norton Stone (6 replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,849,849#msg-849</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So for the last few years, I have been looking for an EDC edge for my knives.  Normally, I would take the edge up to a Spyderco UF or Dan&#039;s Surgical Black Arkansas stone, as I mostly push cut, or so I thought.  Kyley Harris (cKc) examined my cutting technique and told me that I am actually zipper cutting.  That means that I would benefit from a more coarse edge.  On a side note, I have been either regrinding my knives or thinning them out by putting a relief grind on the blade, so the actual effect of the edge grit is more like fine-tuning since the cutting ability has been increased.  The coarse edge I was always fond of was Wayne Goddard&#039;s Norton (M) Crystolon/Norton (F) India stone and edge.  I found that this edge works best for me if I strop a little after the stone using Green Buffing Compound (Woodstock Extra-Fine).  I put this edge on my EDC knife (Victorinox Sentinal), and I haven&#039;t had to resharpen the edge for weeks.  The knife is still shaving sharp in both directions.  Using this edge saves a lot of time because I only use one combination stone (Norton IC6), and a grit progression of only two grits.  This defiantly is more efficient for my use.  <br />
<br />
I found this on the web: <a href="https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/crystolon-india-wayne-goddard-what-would-you-buy.1422531/" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">Crystolon India = Wanye Goddard</a> <br />
<br />
There is also an excerpt from one of his books that were published in a 2001 Blade Magazine article that talks about knife sharpening.  I couldn&#039;t find it online. however.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Mar 2022 04:24:30 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,767,767#msg-767</guid>
            <title>New here (3 replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,767,767#msg-767</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi there and thanks for the invitation to join. I’m mostly a kitchen knife sharpener but I do lots of nifty folders. I use Japanese Water Stones exclusively so I’m not sure if I have anything useful to offer here. I love learning new things so I’ll spend time just reading what the learned folks who have already joined have to say. Peter from Nova Scotia.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>PeterNowlan</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 09 Feb 2022 19:25:52 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,693,693#msg-693</guid>
            <title>Ideal Stone/Plate Set for Edge Pro (32 replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,693,693#msg-693</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Guys, I’m gonna get an Edge Pro Apex. I want to be able to set edges at known angles in order to make very precise changes to cutting ability and durability as well as making comparisons between knives/steels when edge angle is the same. <br />
<br />
The question is what would be an all-around stone setup, an array of stones and plates for the three key steps in sharpening:<br />
<br />
1. Shaping <br />
2. Preparing the edge to take an apex <br />
3. Setting the apex<br />
<br />
I’ll have to have a set of different abrasives that I can use for everything from 420/1055 class steels up to S90V/XHP/M4 class steels. <br />
<br />
Right now I’m looking at an Atoma 140 for shaping of the high-carbide steels, since it will work well with light pressure and high-carbide steels. Not sure about what to use on the simple steels for shaping. Not sure what to use for the 2nd step, in freehand I use a SuperStone 400. And for setting the apex of knives I’ll use an Atoma 1200, and probably at least two other ones for times a higher polish is wanted. <br />
<br />
What do you guys think? Have you ever looked at Gritomatic’s selection of stuff for the Edge Pro? Any experience with the various stones for the Edge Pro, and what might work well for the holes in the lineup I mentioned above?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Ryan Nafe</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Mar 2022 19:17:38 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,607,607#msg-607</guid>
            <title>The Benefits Of A Light Touch (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,607,607#msg-607</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So after a few months of trying, I was able to get my sharpening touch back for getting a high sharpness edge.  One thing I learned was that for achieving a high sharpness was to use a light touch during the edge refinement stage of sharpening and the burr removal (if burr sharpening) or a micro-bevel (if either burr sharpening or no-burr sharpening).  This is ususally the last stage of sharpening, for me it is with the Spyderco UF and Dan&#039;s Surgical Black Arkansas stone.  Lately I have also been using the Rozsutec stone also as part of my finishing routine.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Feb 2022 22:08:44 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,517,517#msg-517</guid>
            <title>Pull Through Sharpeners Don&#039;t Suck, Neither Do Sharpening Steels. (4 replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,517,517#msg-517</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ It seems in the sharpening community, pull through sharpeners and sharpening steels are somewhat hated.  They do happen to be actual useful sharpening equipment, if, like anything, used correctly:<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/reviews/everyday_carbide.html</strong><br />
Overall<br />
This sharpener was not expected to be significantly useful and in general these types of sharpeners are often pretty strongly degraded such as noted in the video on the right. However it was found that :<br />
<br />
with a little care then a fairly sharp edge can be produced<br />
for a rougher use knife it could be just as useful as a hand honed edge<br />
It does have some issues :<br />
no way to adjust the edge angle<br />
not trivial to deburr and it burrs heavily<br />
the inserts can not be rotated or replaced<br />
it is a bit large/bulky compared to some of the other versions<br />
</div></blockquote>
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/forum/read.php?7,503,1280#msg-1280</strong><br />
<br />
Some use showing how you can use them to achieve a decent edge in both terms of initial sharpness and edge retention :<br />
</div></blockquote>
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/forum/read.php?7,25481,25486#msg-25486</strong><br />
<br />
It is axiomatic that a sharp knife is a safe knife, and a whole lot more pleasurable to use. I wanted to find a knife sharpener for family members to keep their knives in useable condition. I bought a couple of these Kyocera ceramic wheel pull though sharpeners. They fit the bill well enough, with some issues described below.<br />
</div></blockquote>
<br />
[<a href="http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/forum/read.php?5,24411" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.cliffstamp.com</a>]<br />
<br />
<br/><iframe id="ytplayer" type="text/html" width="425" height="350" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BfbX7VXBZBs" frameborder="0"></iframe><br/><br />
<br />
I used to use a Smiths pull through sharpener for deburring, when I was still not that great at sharpening.  This is the one I would use, the 10-second knife sharpener: [<a href="https://smithsproducts.com/10-second-knife-scissors-sharpener" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">smithsproducts.com</a>] <img src="https://smithsproducts.com/images/thumbs/0003415_10-second-knife-scissors-sharpener.jpeg" class="bbcode" border="0" /> .  I would form a burr and flip it once or twice, and the lightly use the pull through sharpener, and I would get a shaving edge.  Speaking of pull through sharpeners, this one looks interesting, as it has adjustable angles:  [<a href="https://smithsproducts.com/50264" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">smithsproducts.com</a>] <img src="https://smithsproducts.com/images/thumbs/0003151_adjustable-angle-pull-thru-knife-sharpener.jpeg" class="bbcode" border="0" />.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 14 May 2023 17:44:07 +0000</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,246,246#msg-246</guid>
            <title>Norton Ascent Ceramic UF Stones (6 replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,246,246#msg-246</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ [<a href="https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Ascent-Ceramic-Stone-Ultra-Fine-P1781C25.aspx" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.sharpeningsupplies.com</a>]<br />
[<a href="https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Assets/Images/UAB-z.jpg" target="_blank"  rel="nofollow">www.sharpeningsupplies.com</a>]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br /></small><strong>https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Ascent-Ceramic-Stone-Ultra-Fine-P1781C25.aspx</strong><br />
Exciting New Norton Ceramic Stones<br />
Norton Pike Ascent Ceramic Stones are the latest development from a company with a long history of making quality sharpening stones. We&#039;re excited that Norton has chosen to work with Sharpening Supplies to launch these new stones. The quality and convenience of these extremely hard, extremely fine, extremely flat stones will make sharpeners of tools and knives alike excited as well.<br />
<br />
Extremely Hard<br />
Ascent Stones are made of exceptionally pure ceramic material and are truly hard. Ceramic this hard will cut any steel, even the very hard, tough alloys found in the best knives and tools. Ceramic stones wear exceptionally well for a long life even with heavy use.<br />
<br />
Extremely Fine<br />
The Ultra Fine grade of the Ascent Ceramic Stones is for finishing and polishing. The resulting finish is finer than that achieved from a Hard Translucent Arkansas and comparable to the Norton 8000 grit Water Stone. These are great for a final sharpening step and to maintain a razor edge on your tools and knives.<br />
<br />
Extremely Flat<br />
Norton Ascent Ceramic Stones are reliably flat. They are machined to a flat, smooth surface when they are made, and the same hard wearing characteristics that give them a long life also ensures that they will remain flat. These stones will not dish or cup with use.<br />
<br />
Ready When You Need Them<br />
One of the factors that keeps people from sharpening is the inconvenience of the whole operation. Stones have to be prepared. Messes have to be cleaned up. Ascent Ceramic stones offer the convenience of stones that are ready to go when you are.<br />
No Flattening Required - Norton Ascent Stones start flat and remain flat. Checking a stone for flatness before every use is not needed.<br />
Used Dry - Norton Ascent Ceramic Stones do not require any oil or water when sharpening. No preparation or cleanup is required.<br />
Great for Tools or Knives!<br />
Norton Ascent Ceramic stones will appeal to tool sharpeners who will appreciate the permanent flatness of the stones. Put a final polish on chisel and blade blade backs or hone wide bevels without worrying about any dish or cup in the stone.<br />
<br />
Knife sharpeners will value the Norton Ascent Ceramic&#039;s flatness as well of course, but also their ability to handle super hard alloys. Hone exotic steel knives to razor sharpness quickly and efficiently.<br />
<br />
Pocket Size Also Available<br />
In addition to the bench stone sizes, the Norton Ascent Ceramic Stone is also available in a 4&quot; Pocket Stone Size.<br />
<br />
Norton Item and Part Numbers<br />
6&quot; x 2&quot; x 1/2&quot; Ultra Fine Ascent Ceramic Item No. UAB6, Part No. 69078643673<br />
8&quot; x 2&quot; x 1/2&quot; Ultra Fine Ascent Ceramic Item No. UAB82, Part No. 69078643675<br />
8&quot; x 3&quot; x 1/2&quot; Ultra Fine Ascent Ceramic Item No. UAB83, Part No. 69078643677</div></blockquote>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 12 Oct 2021 22:00:14 +0000</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,245,245#msg-245</guid>
            <title>Homemade Lubricant For Sintered Ceramic Stones (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,245,245#msg-245</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have been using Blistersteels hard stone formula for some years:<br />
<br/><iframe id="ytplayer" type="text/html" width="425" height="350" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9GDyMdrPHl4" frameborder="0"></iframe><br/><br />
1 part baby oil<br />
1 part dish soap<br />
4 parts water<br />
  <br />
<br />
For Spyderco ceramic stones, I have found that using 1 part mineral oil/baby oil, 1 part dish soap, and 1 part water left the ceramic stone in a state after use that you can just wipe off the metal swarf on the stone.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 01 Oct 2021 14:56:03 +0000</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,156,156#msg-156</guid>
            <title>Request for feedback,  kitchen knives (1 reply)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,156,156#msg-156</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Some weeks back,  I sharpened my wife&#039;s chief knife on a Norton 4/8k waterstone,. The stone is almost never used.  She commented on it being sharper than ever. <br />
<br />
A few weeks later,  she had trouble cutting a tomato with it.   Said she had to go further up the blade to cut the tomato.   The edge looked ok to the eye.<br />
<br />
So I ram the knife over the medium sharpmaker stones at 40 degrees.  Time will tell if this is preferable.  I use oil on sharpmaker stones. <br />
<br />
I decided to use one sharpmaker fine stone flat, like it would be stored,  on a smaller knife.   I think I like it better flat than the v configuration.  Perhaps I have better mussel memory for horizontal stones.<br />
<br />
Do any of you have ideas about better processes?<br />
<br />
What I used to do is a few strokes on the fine rods in v configuration every week, and that worked for a year or 2.  I am thinking that the edge got fatigued and broke down.<br />
<br />
We have Wusfhoff knives in this case.  She favors them over the others.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jj_sharp</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 29 Aug 2021 16:42:38 +0000</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,106,106#msg-106</guid>
            <title>Flattening Arkansas Stone (5 replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,106,106#msg-106</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I&#039;ve decided to try to flatten a large (roughly 10x3&quot;) Arkansas stone I bought off of Ebay. It was sold as a hard Arkansas stone and is non-translucent white/gray color. I&#039;m planning to use silicon carbide grit on plate glass. <br />
<br />
Any advice on which grits to buy? I&#039;ve found a site that sells grit from 60 to 800 grit. <br />
<br />
I assume that larger grit will flatten more quickly, but I&#039;m uncertain how high to go for finishing the stone. I plan to primarily use this stone for setting the apex on kitchen knives.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Cal_Bowie</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2023 19:40:38 +0000</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,55,55#msg-55</guid>
            <title>The Myth Of Fast Cutting Diamond Stones (5 replies)</title>
            <link>https://www.beyondt01micron.com/read.php?8,55,55#msg-55</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Often, you hear about sharpening, that the fastest way to remove steel from a knife is to use Diamond plates.  This, in fact, is not exactly true.  Yes, an XC diamond plate has a coarse grit, and given if it is clean and lubricated, it is an effective sharpening tool.  But, compare it to an oil stone, like a Norton Crystolon (SiC) or India ( Al2O3) Stone, freshly conditioned, it is slow cutting.  The reason is pressure.  You should never use pressure on a Diamond or CBN stone, as it will prematurely wear the stone out.  But a Norton Crystolon or India Stone, freshly conditioned, can be used with a lot of pressure, and will remove steel very quickly.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jasonstone20</dc:creator>
            <category>General Sharpening</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 25 Feb 2023 06:02:14 +0000</pubDate>
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